Turtles and Tails: Nashville Trip

We've spent the summer working on projects around the house that are more infrastructure-related rather than cosmetic. At the end you look back and wonder if you've really made any improvements at all. I'm fairly certain we have, but after all that I needed a pick-me-up.

I dragged Tom off to Nashville for 10 days and we had an absolute blast. If you remember (here's a link if you don't), I went there on a girls' long weekend last year, but didn't manage to see all of the sights I wanted to. Tom and I played full-on tourist and packed our days with sight-seeing and our evenings with live music.

Of course we started our vacation with a night at the Grand Ole Opry. The lineup that night featured Ricky Skaggs, Maggie Rose, Shelly Fairchild, Joe Mullins & The Radio Ramblers, and Steve Wariner, among others. Tom was pretty happy to be there on a bluegrass/banjo night.

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On two different days we took the Old Town Trolley tour, which is a hop on, hop off trolley that goes all around Nashville, hitting most of the city's landmarks. The drivers were really well-informed and kept up a running commentary filled with history and interesting trivia about what we were seeing. I recommend it highly.

Get ready for a whole lotta scenery.

Marathon Motor Works:

The Parthenon (Centennial Park):

The Parthanon - Centennial Park - Nashville

Bicentennial Mall State Park:

We also walked around downtown A LOT. My Fitbit probably thought I was cheating.

I loved the Nashville Farmers' Market. This place was HUGE. And it has a food court that's open every day. We ate lunch there twice.

I loved the architecture. My camera was filled with pictures of buildings.

Kirkland Hall Vanderbilt University Nashville

Tennessee State Capitol Building Nashville

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At night we went to see as many live acts as we could.

Belcourt Taps - 2117 Belcourt Avenue

The bands were a bit loud for the size of the place, and the waitress got both our food and drink orders wrong, but it wasn't a terrible night. I would definitely go back again, maybe on an acoustic night.

The Family Wash - 1508A Gallatin Pike S, Madison (formerly 626 Main St A, Nashville)

I can't say enough good things about this place. Multiple bands, friendly staff, and the best shepherd's pie I've ever had. It has relocated a few times over the years, but is currently just north of Nashville.

Stephen Simmons

Jon Byrd

Jamie Rubin

The Bluebird Cafe - 4104 Hillsboro Pike

Yes, we got tickets! The Bluebird is pretty famous - in movies, on television, and in songs. There are only 90 seats so it can be tough to get tickets. The night we were there it was an "in the round" performance, where the singers and musicians sit in a circle in the center of the club and just jam. We got to listen to Mickey Guyton, Liz Rose (she's written for Taylor Swift and Little Big Town, among others), Nathan Chapman, and Stephanie Chapman.

They sang, told stories, and brought in other friends to sing. It was amazing. Like, I didn't want it to end, amazing. We were sitting so close to the singers (that's Tom's head in the lower left). Best night of the whole vacation.

Mickey Guyton

Nathan Chapman

Stephanie Chapman

Liz Rose

Jake Rose

Christy McDonald

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On my last trip to Nashville we went on a tour of the mansion at Belle Meade Plantation. It was so good - the guide told the story of the plantation in such a way that it really stuck with you, no sugar coating or glossing over history. I knew Tom would want to experience it too. The tour was just as interesting the second time. We also toured the grounds and buildings.

We finished up by visiting the Belle Meade horses - Whispers and Lt. Dan. We quickly became very good friends (thanks to some sweet talk and apples - mostly the apples).

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So what about the food? After all, Nashville is known for its food. Oh, we ate so much!

Nashville is famous for its hot chicken. The most well-known locations are Prince's (the originator) and Hattie B's. It's even on the trolley tour. We chose Hattie B's because...we were in the area. Note: the Charlotte Avenue location has a much shorter line, if you happen to be over that way.

The chicken comes in 6 heat levels - from Southern (no heat) to Shut the Cluck Up (burn notice). I chose medium and it was just right. Spicy-hot, but not so much that you don't enjoy it. I really liked my meal, but I'm going to be completely honest here - it wasn't life-changing. It was just good chicken.

The other southern treat I wanted to try was Kool-Aid pickles. We don't have anything like that here at home. These ones are from Peg Leg Porker, a BBQ restaurant located in the Gulch. Now these were kind of fun. The pickles are brined (is that the word?) in a dill juice/Kool-Aid mixture, so that they have a flavour somewhere between a dill and a sweet pickle. I'm going to try to make these.

Now Tom + Chee isn't a "Nashville thing", but it was a place we wanted to try because, again, we don't have this chain at home. They specialize in fancy grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup, hence the name. This one below is turkey pesto with mozzarella and potato chips - in the sandwich. Amazing.

Tom & Chee Nashville gourmet grilled cheese

We went to the Tennessee State Fair on our last night there, and I had to try the deep-fried Oreos. What a fantastic, greasy treat.

Other places we tried that were new to us:

Cookout - 2910 Gallatin Pike, East Nashville
- great prices, generous portions

Tenn Sixteen - 1016 Woodland St., East Nashville
- try the Bushwacker! (and the chicken & waffles)

The Family Wash/Garage Coffee - 626 Main St., East Nashville
- the best meatloaf and mashed potatoes

Sky Blue Cafe - 700 Fatherland St., East Nashville
- worth the wait in line, huge breakfast, fresh squeezed orange juice

Franklin Mercantile Deli - 100 4th Ave. N., Franklin
- get the soup and sandwich combo

Southern Engine Deli - 1200 Clinton St., Nashville
- pastrami sandwiches on sourdough - so good!

Now, let's talk a little about candy stores. I have a weakness for candy. Especially gummies and salt water taffy. There is a store on Lower Broadway called Savannah's Candy Kitchen. It is a candy-lover's paradise. I went there last year and was pretty excited to go again.